Ѳō-ᾱ is a separate world within Kyoto, a walled-off complex of temples and subtemples that invites lazy strolling. The subtemple of ղō- here contains one of the city’s more interesting gardens. Ѳō-ᾱ dates from 1342 and belongs to the Rinzai school. There are 47 subtemples, but only a few are open to the public.
From the north gate, follow the broad stone avenue flanked by rows of temples to the southern part of the complex. The eponymous Ѳō-ᾱ temple is roughly in the middle of the complex. Your entry fee entitles you to a tour of several of the buildings of the temple. The ceiling of the Ჹٳō (Lecture Hall) here features Tanyū Kanō’s unnerving painting ū (meaning ‘Dragon glaring in eight directions’). Your guide will invite you to stand directly beneath the dragon; doing so makes it appear that it’s spiralling up or down.
ܲō-, a subtemple of Ѳō-ᾱ, offers 90-minute zazen (seated Zen meditation) sessions for foreigners with English explanations for ¥3500; highly recommended.
