Hop on a tram bound for North Point, and past Fortress Hill you¡¯ll turn into a narrow street teeming with market stalls and old tenement buildings. This is the famous Chun Yeung Street Market, and at 5pm it¡¯s so busy the tram has to squeeze between traders and cart-pullers. Many stores here sell foodstuffs from F¨²ji¨¤n that you can't find elsewhere in Hong Kong. North Point has a huge F¨²ji¨¤nese community and you¡¯ll hear their dialect spoken on Chun Yeung St.
As the tram turns the corner into King¡¯s Rd, you¡¯ll pass the nondescript Wah Fung Chinese Goods Centre. Once Hong Kong¡¯s largest Chinese department store, the building it's in, Kiu Kwan Mansion (ƒS¹Ú´óB), served as a hideout for underground communists during the 1967 riots.